Victoria, BC, is more than gardens and tea


March 15, 2010

No matter the far corner of the world in which I may be traveling, when I say I live in Victoria, British Columbia, fellow travelers invariably smile knowingly, "Ah yes, Butchart Gardens and afternoon tea at the Empress Hotel. Victoria is so British!" 

While zodiac cruising an Amazon tributary or stalking lemurs in a Madagascar nature park, it hardly seems the right time to dispute such exclamations, but I do try to gently champion the fact that Victoria is so much more than gardens and tea. The British flavor, too, is becoming infused with multi-cultural energy, including the growing presence of native or "First Nations" tourism and the diversity of international cuisine and colorful festivals.

Of course, it is always good to have an icon or two with which to associate a destination -- after all, where would New York be without its Statue of Liberty or San Francisco without its Golden Gate Bridge? 

So with due respect to Victoria's icons, let's explore some of the less visible options around a city and a region that, for the past decade, has increasingly attracted a new breed of active travelers and those with an abundance of educational curiosity, particularly in association with challenging the taste buds.

Victoria is much more than the magical panorama of the near-circular inner harbor and historic city core. While the city itself hosts a population of less than 80,000, the region consists of 14 cities of 330,000 across the southern end of Vancouver Island. Compared to many other popular visitor destinations, it is an accessible area with a lot of variety, stretching from the wild Pacific coast on its western flank to the tranquil Gulf Islands dotted along the region's eastern shoreline.

First stop should be the office of Tourism Victoria (www.tourismvictoria.com), facing the always-bustling inner harbor, where expert advice awaits. No need to stray far to find scenic walking, hiking and sea kayaking opportunities, ranging from a few hours to a whole day or even multi-day options if time permits. 

According to federal government statistics, Victoria is the cycling capital of Canada, partly encouraged by its mild year-round weather and partly by the active, outdoor mindset of its population. Bike rental shops mean you may explore alone, or you can harness the expertise of a company such as Cycle Treks (www.cycletreks.com), which offers both guided and self-guided touring. The full-day Seaside Touring Route is its most popular itinerary, covering essential Victoria highlights. There are also itineraries for winery touring, the Butchart Gardens, and West Coast Adventure cycle tours as well as multi-day tours of Southern Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands.

Never may I be accused of underrating the remarkable 55 acres that make up the year-round floral masterpiece that is The Butchart Gardens (www.butchartgardens.com), a 30-minute drive or bus ride north of downtown and worthy of a whole or half day visit in itself. 

However, there are many more intimate illustrations to justify Victoria's reputation as one of the great garden cities of the world. Most people will never discover them without the help of Joan Looy and her Victorian Garden Tours (http://victoriangardentours.com), that feature customized visits to a selection of unusual public and private gardens throughout the region. Especially for visitors who count gardening as a significant hobby, the chance to explore these hidden gems beyond the garden hedge and talk to enthusiasts who designed them is a treat.

In North America, Victoria ranks only second to San Francisco in the number of restaurants per capita. Lower Vancouver Island offers the perfect climate to produce unique grape varieties that are transformed into wines at owner-operated wineries. 

Travel with Taste Tours (www.travelwithtaste.com) offers culinary travelers a variety of ways to experience southern Vancouver Island's and Greater Victoria's locally grown and harvested foods and wines. My favorite is a full-day tour with entertaining tour owner and gourmet guide Kathy McAree, driving 45 minutes up-island through the Cowichan Valley. The day passes too quickly visiting boutique wineries and a British cider apple orchard with six varieties of home-grown ciders to taste, and sampling a range of locally made cheeses. A signature chef lunch also makes the day memorable. Visitors may also rent a car and navigate the valley wine route themselves.

A few minutes walk from the inner harbor is the oldest Chinatown in Canada, rich in color, authentic flavors and fragrances emanating from every sidewalk and historic alleyway.

Canada's oldest Chinatown

Offering small groups of guests a peek behind the great red gate, Chef Heidi Fink (www.chefheidifink.com/chinatown.php) demystifies the Asian cuisine experience with walking tours that include tips on how to purchase ingredients and how to cook authentic Chinese dishes. And there is always a Hidden Dragon tour and dinner show (www.oldchinatown.com), both educational and entertaining.

Over the past few decades, Victoria has increased its focus on year-round live theater, music, art and festivals, including the Victoria Tea Festival (www.victoriateafestival.com) that celebrates the world's most popular beverage (after water) and the rituals and health benefits of teas worldwide.

And if high tea at the iconic Empress Hotel remains a compelling item on your Victoria attractions checklist, why not consider a tea and history tour (www.walkabouts.ca) through the grand old lady's elegant public spaces, accompanied by an Edwardian-costumed guide sharing tales of the hotel's 102 years of presiding over Victoria's waterfront? 

When laced with a dash of history, the finely sliced cucumber and horseradish sandwiches and the raisin scones with strawberry preserves and Devonshire cream will taste all the more authentically British.